Art’s Cyclery Blog

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: Can I use Shimano outboard bearing bottom bracket cups from a Dura-Ace road crank on my Shimano XT mountain cranks? They look like they are the same, so it should work right?  From: Carl

Answer: Looks can be deceiving Carl. Much like the lady at the local watering hole that looked great until your sobriety returned, bike parts often promise compatibility by beguiling us with their fancy labels and comely machined edges, only to disappoint us when they are fully assembled. This is one of those cases.

Looks can be deceiving - these Dura Ace BB cups won't work with mountain cranks, even though they may look compatible.

This is why calipers can be a mechanic’s best friend. When applied to the parts in question, the calipers revealed that the road cups are too narrow to work with mountain cranks. Resist the temptation to simply add spacers behind the cups to shim them to the correct width. If you do this there will not be enough threads left on the cup to safely engage the bottom bracket shell threads in your frame. Avoid the heartbreak of destroying a frame by attempting to save $30 on the correct bottom bracket.

Just because some of you readers may be wondering if a mountain bottom bracket will work with a road crank, the answer to that question is also, “No.” It is too wide and will ruin your chainline while leaving an unsafe amount of spline interface between the bottom bracket spindle and the left crank arm.

Pay no heed to the siren song of rigged compatibility between components and you will be a happy man Carl.

Question: What is the deal with tire width measurements? Many manufacturers claim to make tires that are the same width but there is a huge discrepancy in width from one brand to another. How do I know which tires are marked correctly without mounting them?  From: Brandon

Answer: Humans are prone to exaggeration. This is especially true when it comes to lengths and widths. Just ask any of our buddies at Tackle Warehouse how big the bass was they caught last weekend! Or, just ask your girlfriend what dress size she wears for a reverse of the bass example! Tires tend to follow the bass model.

However, exaggeration is only one part of the problem. Rim width, tire manufacturing variances, air pressure, tubeless vs. tubed installation, the age of the tire, and even the design of the rim’s bead hook will have an effect on tire width. For example a Continental Grand Prix 700×23c is true to size when mounted on a standard 19mm wide road rim. But put the same tire on a wide Hed Belgium rim, and the width grows to around 28! The profile increases as well, though not as dramatically. Tires that are mounted tubeless have a greater tendency to stretch after they have been installed for a month or so. Mountain tires can grow as much as 10mm due to casing stretch (tubed tires stretch too, it just takes much longer). Then there is the issue with mountain tires of whether the manufacturer is measuring the casing width or the knob width. Each manufacturer does it differently. With some tires the knobs are the widest part of the tire, and in others it is the casing.

Unfortunately, the only way to really know a tire’s width is to mount the tire on a rim and measure it. That is why we are mounting tires and taking our own measurements and posting them in the product description so that you don’t have to. We use standard width rims to best approximate what most of our customers use. Specifically, we use a WTB Laser TCS trail rim with a 21mm inner width and inflate the tires to 32 psi. If your rim is wider or narrower, take the difference between our rim width and yours and multiply it by .75 and you will get the approximate difference in tire width for your application. We also use tubes to take these measurements because it is impractical to do a tubeless mounting for every tire we carry since we would have to give away the test tire after it was coated in sealant. Plus there is the time delay issue of tire stretch that would require us to age each tire before measuring. A safe approximation is to add 5mm (~ 0.2”) to our measurement of the width of any mountain tire that you plan to mount tubeless.

Some basic generalizations that apply to tire width by manufacturer are as follows: Michelin and WTB tires run narrow. Specialized, Schwalbe, and Continental tires generally run true to size with respect to width but tend to have a tall profile. Maxxis mountain tires are now true to size after being narrow for many years. Just remember that these are all generalizations and that some tire models within these brands don’t fit the stereotype. The WTB 2.4 Mutano Raptor is a prime example, as they tend to be true to size. Oftentimes manufacturers will describe tires as being “high volume.” This tends to refer to the profile rather than the tread or casing width. High volume tires offer a cushier ride and better traction in the rough stuff. We will let you know in our description if this claim is true or not, or if the manufacturer should have claimed it but didn’t.

In the end though, it isn’t about how big your tires are; it is how you ride them that matters!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

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After months of hype and speculation, Cervélo has finally released the specifications for the P5 time trial super-bike. The bike is a complete re-design of the P4, with a ton of new features and a visually striking profile. The P5 brakes new ground on several fronts, perhaps most notably is the utilization of hydraulic brakes, which are produced by Magura. The motto for the P5 is “Simply Faster,” which according to Cervélo’s co-founder and CEO means, the bike “is not only fast, but simple and easy to live with.”

The new P5 will be available in two models - one for triathlon and one that is UCI legal. This is the tri version.

Frameset

The P5 frameset is Cervélo’s most aerodynamic ever, with a time saving of ~30-seconds in a 40-kilometer time trial, according to Cervélo. The P5 also features the BBright bottom bracket for ultimate power transfer and ComfortPly technology which removes unnecessary material to reduce vibration and improve ride quality. The P5 frame is the same on the triathlon and time trial versions of the bike, which means there aren’t any ridiculously deep tube shapes like the down tube on the Specialized Shiv. The fork on the tri version features much deeper blades than the UCI legal model and has a fairing that covers the hydraulic brake caliper. The P5 is also optimized to handle wider tires because of the trend toward wider wheels, popularized by Zipp and HED.

Aerobar

The integrated Aduro aerobar has been designed by Cervélo and manufactured by 3T. It features 100% hidden cables that eliminate aero drag and engineered cable paths that minimize bends and maximize shifting performance. The Arduro can be set up in three stack height configurations for over 11cm of adjustment and consists of only a few parts so assembly and adjustments are easy. Designed to match perfectly with the brake, fork and frame, the front end forms a single aerodynamic body for “flawless aerodynamic performance,” according to Cervélo.

The 3T aerobars have 11cm of stack height adjustability.

Brakes

The P5 is the first time trial bike to utilize hydraulic rim brakes in production. Made by Magura, the RT 8TTT system is compatible with all road wheels and mounts to any standard basebar. Stopping power is abundant with quick response to rider input. Plus, this hydraulic system is lighter than most cable brake setups.

The Magura RT 8TT hydraulic system is low maintenance and lighter than most cable setups.

Storage and Hydration

Designed for speed and versatility, a full range of sleek and intuitive storage solutions have been custom designed for the P5. From a bottle cage mount between the aerobar pads to a Shimano Di2 battery holder inside the frame’s HiddenPocket to multiple locations for nutrition, the P5 mates optimal aero locations with east of access.

A bottle cage will fit neatly between the aerobars and a storage box attached to the top tube.

Availability and Pricing

We expect the P5 to arrive around mid March. The tri frameset will retail for $6,500 while the complete Di2 bike will be $10,000. The UCI frameset will go for $4,500 and the complete Dura-Ace bike will be $6,500.

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Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I weigh about 230lbs and wanted to “ride some weight off.” On my very first time out – new tires and all, I had a flat and have since been shy about riding because I just don’t care to change a flat every trip. Aside from carrying a repair kit – which I did – is there a reliable preventative measure I could take in the future? From: Jim

Answer: Given your weight, you have a high likelihood of incurring pinch-flats or snakebites. The term snakebite comes from the twin holes made in an innertube when it is pinched between the road and your rim.

The Hardshell casing on the Gatorskin wraps further into the sidewall and an extra-wide PolyX Breaker covers the entire tread strip from shoulder-to-shoulder.

If the source of your flats is from a foreign object puncturing the tire then the same armored tires that I recommended for you should help to ward off this type of problem as well.

There are two ways to avoid this type of flat. One is to use high air pressure. In your case 115-120 psi would be good. The other way to prevent this type of flat is to use an armored tire. While there are a plethora of armored tires on the market, the ones you need have an armored sidewall as well as an armored tread. Examples of this type of tire include, but are not limited to, Continental Gatorskin Hardshell tires and the Schwalbe Ultremo DD HD tire. The thicker sidewall found in these tires will cushion and protect your innertube when it is pinched. Downhill mountain bike tires have used this type of protection for over a decade to prevent the same problem.

The nuclear option for flat prevention is to switch to road tubeless. The beauty of road tubeless is that they can’t pinch flat unless you nail them hard enough to destroy your rim too. Even better when you get a puncture, the foreign object seals the hole until it is removed. When it is removed, there is sealant waiting to seal the tire so you can keep rolling. Lastly, tubeless road tires handle better than all of the armored tires offering more grip and a much smoother ride.

Whichever solution you choose, ride hard and watch out for those snakes!

Question: I want to shed some weight on my mountain bike but I don’t have a lot of money to do it. The other challenge is that I don’t want to give up reliability or performance. Any suggestions?  From: Bill

Answer: You sound like a hard guy to please Bill, but that doesn’t mean I won’t try to. What can I say; sometimes a guy just wants everything. I know I do! Well, I have good news for you because your seemingly impossible desire is actually achievable. In fact, I think I can improve the performance of your bike with some of these relatively inexpensive suggestions.

Every weight weenie knows that taking weight off your wheels is the best way to improve a bike’s handling while making the climbs significantly easier (or, faster and just as hard if you are into that). This does not mean you need to drop two grand on a carbon wheelset to drop some weight, although to quote Ferris Beuller, “If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.”

I bet I can actually drop a half-pound off of your bike for under $20. Just switching to ultra light tubes can take around 100g off of each wheel without any sacrifice in performance. Many old school riders will tell you that ultra light tubes are unreliable but I have experienced no degradation in reliability with them. Let’s be honest with ourselves here. If a thorn gets through a 0.5mm thick tube, it will get through 1.0mm thick tube also.

A lightweight tire like the Schwalbe Racing Ralph will shed grams without sacrificing grip.

If you already have tubeless rated tires and are using tubes, you can drop between 50-100g per wheel by converting to tubeless. This typically involves just adding some sealing tape to the rim and an aftermarket tubeless valve. Check out this blog I posted a while back for tubeless compatibility issues. This weight loss solution costs less than $30 and will dramatically improve both reliability and traction.

Another option is to switch to lighter tires whether they be tubeless or tubed tires. Schwalbe makes a number of light tires that have outstanding grip for their weight. A pair of tires will run you $130. This may sound like a lot but compared to the price of a new wheelset they are a steal. When you factor in the improved grip and the fact that you can save a comparable amount of weight by switching tires rather than switching wheels and using your old tires, the choice is a no-brainer.

So there is some food for thought that will hopefully satiate your hunger for a lighter steed. Keep the rubber side down and ride in peace my friend.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

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The 2012 Garmin-Barracuda Team Jersey.

We can’t wait for the Tour Down Under to start this weekend so we can finally talk about racing again. But until then, we are left to discuss other news, such as Garmin-Cervelo’s new team name and kit.

Garmin-Cervelo will now be known as Garmin-Barracuda and is reverting back to the argyle design that graced the Slipstream jerseys of yesteryear. In case you were wondering, Barracuda Networks is a software company that provides security, networking and storage solutions. It’s too bad Cervelo is no longer a title sponsor, but it’s great that the team could pick up another high-profile sponsor.

Check out the aero dimples.

The new kit is very similar to the special edition Tour de France jersey the team raced in last year with blue argyle on the bottom and white across the mid-section. Castelli improved what is already the most comfortable pair of bib shorts on the planet by adding dimples on the fabric of the thighs to reduce aerodynamic drag. Castelli also claims the Aero Race Jersey will save 10 watts at 40km/h compared to a standard cycling jersey.

We can’t help but take note how many teams will be sporting blue motifs in 2012. One of the best parts about watching cycling on TV is the dazzling rainbow of colors that comprise the mercurial globule that is the Pro Peloton. This year, Garmin-Barracuda, Saxo Bank, Omega Pharma-Quick Step and Team Sky will all ride in kits that feature some shade of blue as the primary color. Can you imagine a four-man breakaway forming with a rider from each of these teams? It’d be more than a little tough to tell them apart.

Another interesting tidbit that came out of this announcement was that mountain bike brake manufacturer Magura has signed on as a Garmin-Barracuda team sponsor. Rumor has it that Magura is launching some new road components this year, possibly hydraulic brakes for road and TT frames. After months of hype, Cervelo will finally unveil the new P5 triathlon/TT bike on January 18th, perhaps outfitted with some fancy new Magura brakes? We’ll soon find out and you can bet we’ll have more information about it here when the news brakes, pun definitely intended.

We’ll leave you with this video of Garmin-Barracuda pro Christophe Le Mevel training in the new kit on a snowy European mountain. If you are the type of rider who hides in the basement spending lonely hours on the trainer, this will hopefully inspire you to get out and ride.

Click on the image to see the video.

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With any luck the industry will start working together to come up with fewer standards we can all share rather than the mess of competing standards we have today. If not, we will just have to follow the example of Look and have each frame manufacturer come up with a frame specific crank. I would prefer the former to the latter, but realize the chances of the former actually happening are slim.

Remember: Even though SRAM and Shimano cranks both use 24mm spindles, they are very different. SRAM GXP spindles step down on the non-drive side. The other key difference is that SRAM GXP cranks are tightened down on the non-drive bearing only, while Shimano cranks press on the outer race of both bearings. These differences require different adaptor solutions in nearly all cases. Make sure you have the right adaptor for your application especially if it is for SRAM. Lastly, I advise home mechanics to avoid SRAM GXP crank adaptors that require installation of a sleeve to be installed on the stepped down GXP spindle to work in a bottom bracket or adaptor that is primarily made for Shimano applications. This type of adaptor is trickier to install and is not worth the headache, especially if you don’t have a lot of mechanical experience.

Question: I’m trying to mount a Shimano Dura-Ace crank on a BBRight equipped Cervelo S5. Is there an adaptor or specific bottom bracket available to make it work? From: Scott

Enduro (ABI) makes an adapter to mount Shimano cranks to the BBright frame design on the S5.

Answer: Enduro (ABI) makes the adaptor you need. It is a press-in reducer type that uses the existing BBRight/PF30 bottom bracket and just reduces the bearing bore down to 24mm while adding the extra width needed for a Shimano crank. Unfortunately this part is only available from Cervelo at the moment, which means you need to work with an authorized Cervelo dealer to get them (fortunately, we are an authorized dealer). Hopefully it will be available from distributors soon.

Question: I have a PressFit 30 bottom bracket on my 2012 Specialized Stumpy hardtail and I want to install SRAM X9 GXP cranks on it. I know I need some sort of SRAM specific adaptor but I can’t find anything except adaptors that are made for Shimano cranks. Is there anything out there, or do I just need to fork out for a BB30 crank? From: Jack

This adapter allows you to use a standard BSA (GXP or otherwise) BB in a PF30 frame.

Answer: The best solution I have found so far for your situation is made by SRAM. It is a SRAM PressFit 30 to English Bottom Bracket adaptor (manufacturer’s part# 00.6415.049.010). This is a neat adaptor because it works for any PressFit 30 frame that is 68mm or 73mm wide. It uses standard English outboard bearing bottom bracket cups that thread into the adaptor. Just follow the included instructions for the correct number of spacers and the location of the wave washer for your specific application.

This adaptor also works for Shimano cranks, just use the outboard bearing bottom bracket spacers you would normally use in a frame with a standard English bottom bracket width of either 68mm or 73mm.

Below is a list of reliable adaptors for common applications:

Adaptors for BB30 frames to use 24mm spindle cranks

Rotor BB30 to BB24 Converter Bottom Bracket - This is a Shimano specific adaptor that places the bearings outboard of a BB30 frame in order to work just like a normal English bottom bracket would with outboard bearings threaded into it. However, with this one the bearings are pressed into the adaptor so no additional bottom bracket is required for use with this adaptor. This is the stiffest adaptor solution that I am aware of for BB30 frames.

Parlee makes a similar BB30 to English adaptor but with this one the two cups do not thread together to prevent the cups from moving within the frame or coming loose in a slightly oversized frame bottom bracket bore (but this is somewhat unlikely). This is also a Shimano only solution.

Wheels Manufacturing Bottom Bracket Adaptors - These adaptors are perhaps the easiest to use. They simply press into a standard BB30 bearing and reduce the bore to 24mm while extending the overall width to meet the standard required for Shimano, Race Face, FSA, or Rotor 24mm spindle cranks designed to work with English bottom brackets. SRAM GXP specific versions are also available.

Adaptors for PressFit 30 (PF30) frames for use with 24mm spindle cranks

SRAM PressFit 30 to English Bottom Bracket Adaptor (manufacturers part# 00.6415.049.010)–This is a neat adaptor because it works for any PressFit 30 frame that is 68mm or 73mm wide. It uses standard English outboard bearing bottom bracket cups that thread into the adaptor. Just follow the included instructions for use with a 24mm SRAM GXP crank for the correct application of spacers and wave washers.

For use with a Shimano crank, just use the spacers you would normally use in a frame with a standard English bottom bracket width of either 68mm or 73mm.

With these adapters, you can use any steel 24mm or GXP crank on any BB30 or PF30 frame.

Wheels Manufacturing Bottom Bracket Adaptors - These adaptors are very easy to use but as of Dec. 2011 they are only available for Shimano cranks. They simply press into a standard PF30 bottom bracket bearing and reduce the bore to 24mm while extending the overall width to meet the standard required for Shimano, Race Face, FSA, or Rotor 24mm spindle cranks designed to work with English bottom brackets.

Adaptors for BBRight frames for use with 24mm spindle cranks

Enduro (ABI) makes an adaptor that is a press-in reducer type that uses the existing BBRight/PF30 bottom bracket and just reduces the bearing bore down to 24mm while adding the extra width needed for a Shimano crank. Unfortunately, as stated above, this part is only available from Cervelo at the moment, which means you need to work with an authorized Cervelo dealer to get them.

There are currently no adaptors available to use SRAM GXP cranks in a BBRight frame without using a sleeve-type adaptor from another vendor in conjunction with the Enduro adaptor. I do not recommend using this kind of solution.

Hopefully this post has done more to clarify the issue at hand rather than confuse. But if you are still scratching your head, please feel free to shoot me an e-mail or post a question on our Facebook wall.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

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Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I have a new Cannondale SuperSix Evo 1 road bike and I want to upgrade the cable to a Gore Sealed system. This bike has internal cable routing for the rear brake. I’ve done some research on the Internet and it looks like it is really difficult to replace this cable. Any tips on how to do this? From: Jack

Answer: Internal cable routing is the bane of most mechanics’ existence. It doesn’t have to be though. Bike companies could fully line the internal routes of their frames with tubing to guide the cable through. They don’t do this because it costs more, is heavier, and engineers often lack the mechanical experience to foresee these types of issues during the design and production of a bike frame.

Gore's Professional System Brake Cables uses compression-less housing for crisp, immediate brake response.

Nevertheless, there is an easy solution that can help immensely in situations like yours. Just add in the liner tubing that the thoughtless bike company did not. Take a stretch of liner tubing such as the liners included in the Gore Sealed kit, and place this over the inner wire before pulling the wire out of the frame. Even if you are not going to use a sealed cable system, you can use this trick as an installation aid. If that is the case, once you get the new inner wire through the tubing, remove the tubing from the frame.

Now some of you are probably asking yourself, “Where do I get this tubing if I am not using a sealed kit?” You actually already possess the tubing you need! Just use the plastic liner of an old section of derailleur housing. To get to it use a knife or a pair of pliers to crack the outer sheath near one end. Then use needle nose pliers to grab onto one of the housing wires and peel it back like you would a banana. Once you peel it all the way to the end it will open up just like a banana peel and you will be left with just the tubing inside.

If I wrote these instructions clearly, following them should result in thousands of fewer four-letter-words uttered in anger. My work here is done. Press on in confidence home mechanics!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

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Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I have a brand new WTB Bronson TCS tire that I flatted on my first ride. It was a pinch flat that I got on a high-speed section of rocky trail. The tire was setup tubeless but the impact caused a tiny 2mm puncture right next to the bead and no matter how much sealant I put in the tire it won’t hold air. Is there a way I can save this tire? From: Kyle

Answer: Wow, you pinch flatted a tubeless tire!?! Kudos, my friend. You must have really been hauling the mail, or running far too low air pressure in your tire. Either way, you have something to be proud of, as this is a feat that is difficult to achieve.

To answer your question, there is an easy way to save your tire. Put a tube in it. There is no way to reliably patch a tire punctured near the bead. If the flat were somewhere else on the tire you would have a fighting chance at fixing it.

A GU packet can serve as a boot, just make sure it's empty.

Although I know the advice I am about to offer on how to patch a tubeless tire will not help you in this instance, I offer it anyway to help the many others that have suffered punctures in more normal locations.

First you’ll need something we call a “boot.” This is not to be confused with a different word pronounced the same way (a homophone) by our northern neighbors meaning “nearby, or concerning a given subject.” No, the boot I am referring to is a small scrap of material that is used as a patch. This material could be made of any number of items. The important thing is that your chosen boot is somewhat flexible, yet does not stretch easily. Common boot materials include American paper currency, energy gel wrappers, old bicycle tire sidewall casing material, discarded bulletproof vests, etc. Keep in mind that the larger the hole, the stiffer the boot needs to be to patch it effectively.

Simply take some inner tube patch cement or tubular tire glue and apply a thin layer to the area of the tire to be booted or patched. Do the same to the boot. Let the glue glaze over and become tacky while remaining slightly viscous. Then press the two together while working out any bubbles that may have formed during application. Make sure the edge of the boot adheres to the tire around the entire circumference of the boot. If it does not, don’t fret. Just apply more glue to the edges and work them by pressing the boot down with your fingers until it fully seals. Give the whole assembly a few hours to cure and you will be back living comfortably in the modern era of tubeless tires in no time flat (pun fully intended).

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

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A few Pro Tour teams have revealed their fancy new kit designs for 2012 recently, most notably Omega Pharma-Quick Step and Lotto-Belisol. These kits are, for the most part, tame and rather conventional, which got us thinking about some of the ugliest, most repulsive Pro cycling kits of all time.

As a euro-centric sport, cycling comes off as a sport full of outlandish characters by our American standards for professional athletics. Tight spandex, colorful outfits, shaved legs…the list of emasculating traits goes on and on. And perhaps these peculiar personalities provide the fuel to create the excessively colorful, creative and ghastly designs that frequent the peloton year after year.

Sometimes the graphic risks pay off, resulting in fan favorite kits like the argyle of the Garmin-Slipstream team or the jelly beans scattered across the Jelly Belly jerseys. But more often than not, these forays that push the limits of cycling fashion result in epic failures. We’ve compiled the five most atrocious designs below. We also acknowledge that some of you may feel differently, which is why there’s a comment section so you can participate in this discussion too. But if you seriously think any of these kits are attractive, you need your sanity checked.

Did a box of crayons melt all over this guy?

#5 - Mapei

I know some people loved the bright colors randomly blocked across the Mapei kits, but how can you expect to be taken seriously wearing this? I mean look at this guy, does he look very intimidating? He looks like a pre-schooler who spent an hour unsupervised with a set of watercolor paints, which is probably the point because Mapei did evolve from a small paint producer.

Mapei was one of the strongest teamsof the late 90s with a powerful stable of classics riders, winning Paris-Roubaix five times between 1995 and 2000. But they will unfortunately be remembered for their hideously colorful kits rather than their results on the road.

#4 - Rock Racing

The bad boys of Rock Racing.

The polar opposite of the Mapei kit comes from Rock Racing, with the team’s “Bad Boy” persona enforced by its anarchist kit design. Full of skulls, stars, stripes, wings, anarchy symbols and bright colors, Rock Racing unveiled 17 different kit designs in three forgettable seasons. The team does get points for being different - everything new feels weird at first because it’s different. But cycling wasn’t ready for Rock Racing. This band of cycling outcasts comprised of riders tainted by doping scandals was pretty bad-ass, showing up to races with tricked out Escalades and hot chicks in team-branded apparel. The problem was, they just weren’t likable, and their kits were probably the biggest reason.

#3 - Acqua & Sapone - Zebra

One of Mario's nicknames was ironically The Lion King.

Not even the great Mario Cipollini could make this one look good. I would love to know who actually came up with this and how they could have possibly thought zebra stripes were a good idea. Of all the animal prints, it has to be one of the lamest. Now tiger stripes, that’s at least an intimidating animal that would justify some possible design cues. Zebras are basically weird horses, you can’t even ride one because they have never been domesticated.

#2 - Saeco  - Super Mario’s muscle suit

WTF?

This one raises more questions than the zebra kit. It is in no way aesthetically pleasing by any metric you can come up with, unless it had some pleasant aroma I’m not aware of, but I find that highly unlikely. I give credit for creativity, but what is the point of the muscles? I just don’t get it, but this is from a man who was quoted as saying, “If I weren’t a professional cyclist, I’d be a porn star,” so nothing he did was really that much of a surprise.

His antics and showmanship were good for the sport. Where the guys of Rock Racing were annoyingly unconventional, Mario the Magnificent was captivating and flamboyant. However, this kit is in no way acceptable and all images should be censored from the internet from here forth.

#1 - Footon-Servetto

“Kids, cover your eyes, for some reason those men are riding in the nude…oh never mind, it’s just the ugliest kit I’ve ever seen,” said the cycling fan to his children. If these kits were actually gold instead of flesh, they would still look horrible, but they may have looked decent enough to make it off this list. Someone clearly made a mistake in the factory, using caucasian-flesh instead of bronzey gold to construct this kit. If the jerseys matched their bikes, they would have been in much better shape.

And how about that footprint on the front? First of all, you can’t even tell what the image is of while the rider is on his bike because he is hunched over the handlebars. To me, the footprint is a reminder that this kit design is the doormat of all kit designs.

(For a good laugh that ranks high on the unintentional comedy scale, check out this video from the team’s kit unveiling in 2010.)

Let these failures be lessons to those graphic designers out there so we can learn from our mistakes and never, ever repeat this ugly chapter of cycling’s rich history.

These poor cyclists look embarrassed. I would be too if I had to race in a flesh-toned kit.

Evan General, Road footon servetto kit, mapei jersey, mario cippollini, rock racing jersey, saeco jersey, ugliest cycling jersey, ugliest cycling kit, ugliest jersey, zebra jersey

Our weekly column is back, where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

SRAM's Red Cassette is an exceptional component, but is notoriously loud.

Question: Hello Daniel, I need some advice from you if you don’t mind. I am using a Sram Red groupset and I’m having issues with noise coming from the rear derailleur. When I start riding, its o.k.; no sound whatsoever, but after about 10km the noise starts again and lasts until I reach home. It sounds like bearings without grease. I have dismantled the rear derailleur, checked the pulleys and serviced it, but it is still there. When the noise first started I thought it was coming from the rear wheel so I changed to another wheel and the noise is still there. Do you ever have this problem? Any idea what I should do? Should I replace it, it’s only three months old. I would appreciate any help. From: Ben

Answer: Ben, it sounds like this noise might be from the cassette. Sram Red cassettes are known to be very loud. The powerdome construction tends to amplify drivetrain noise like the horn on a Victrola. You might try using a Sram powerglide or any Shimano cassette.

If this is not the problem, the only other possible causes would likely be a poorly adjusted rear derailleur, bent or loose derailleur hanger, or an inadequately lubed chain. The chain one makes sense given that the problem starts only part way into a ride. Let me know if any of these solutions work for you.

Question: I am having a problem with the rear shifting on my Cervelo S1 with a full Ultegra SL group. I took it to my LBS and the mechanic diagnosed it as cable stretch and readjusted the tension. This seemed to fix the problem for about 1 ride, but after that the shifting went bad again. I checked the cable anchor bolt and it is tight, any idea what is wrong? From: Randy

Answer: Randy, I’m “a-frayed” that your cables need to be replaced (hint: your issue is likely due to worn or frayed cables). If there is a lot of drag at the shifter (resistance to the shifter moving) then the cables are worn and should be replaced. If there is little to no drag at the shifter, your cable could be coming apart inside the shifter. As each strand of wire breaks the cable gets longer and the tension goes down causing unreliable shifting. If this is what is happening, then you need to nip it in the bud before the cable snaps entirely and the frayed head is left jammed inside the shifter rendering it a dead, rigor mortised lump of gears.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic adjusting front derailleur, bent derailleur hanger, bike maintenance derailleur, derailleur noise, frayed cable, how to replace a gear cable, sram powerglide cassette, sram red cassette

With the calendar year winding down and the holiday shopping season in full swing, we wanted to compile a list of the best products 2011 had to offer. The products on this list were picked by our staff of buyers, an enlightened collection of cyclists with expertise in every genre of two-wheeled machines. We have sorted through literally thousands of products to bring you our top picks for Gear of the Year. The products on the list stand out to us because they meet one or more of the criteria on the list below:

1. Revolutionary
2. Technological and functional superiority
3. Aesthetically awesome

So there you have it. Without any further ado, hype or puffery, we present our first annual Gear of the Year list, starting with bikes.

Road Bike of the Year

Cervelo S5

Thor Hushovd rode the S5 to two stage wins at the 2011 Tour de France.

Cervélo has been the pioneer in aero road bike design since 1996 and the S5 is the latest evolution in Cervélo’s lineup of wind-cheating machines. Evolving from the S3, the S5 is stiffer and more aerodynamic. The most obvious visual difference of the S5 compared to the S3 is the extended rear wheel cutout, which smoothes airflow from the frame to the wheel. Another aero advantage is the dropped downtube, which minimizes turbulence behind the fork crown. The seat stays of the S5 have also been designed to shield the rear brake, further improving aerodynamics. The BB area is massive thanks to the BBright bottom bracket; an improvement on the BB30 design.

The S5 had an impressive 2011 campaign, most notably in the Tour de France where Thor Hushovd rode it to two stage wins and a week in the Yellow Jersey. Not a bad debut for the bike of the year.

Honorable mentions go to the Specialized Venge, ridden my Mark Cavendish to a road world championship and the BMC Team Machine, ridden by Cadel Evans to victory at the Tour de France.

Mountain Bike of the Year

Yeti SB-66

The SB-66 in classic Yeti Turquoise.

Revolutionary. There is no other word that better describe Yeti’s newest 6” travel trail/all-mountain bike dubbed the SB-66. The “Switch Technology” suspension that sets this Yeti apart from other bikes utilizes a unique eccentric pivot above the bottom bracket to build a bike that takes the best characteristics of two radically different suspension designs and combines them while eliminating their drawbacks. Another improvement is a nearly flat suspensionleverage curve. This means the amount of leverage the rear wheel has over the shock stays essentially unchanged as it moves though the full range of travel. All this adds up to a bike that pedals and climbs crisply without sacrificing small bump sensitivity.

HED Aredennes SL Wheelset - $1,099.99

The HED Ardennes SL is our best selling wheelset, and understandably so. It delivers a tubular-like ride quality without limiting you to only using certain tires like tubeless compatible wheels do. It’s under 1,500 grams for the set, rolls insanely well, is stiff and aerodynamic. Lastly, with the new graphics, it just looks better than ever. What’s not to love?

Garmin Edge 800 - $449.99-$649.99

The Garmin Edge 800 will show you just about any metric you want to see, in just about any combination.

Garmin’s Edge 800 is the ultimate companion to have along with you on almost any bike ride—it always knows the way and can tell you just how far you’ve come, how far you have to go, and give you multiple options on how to get there. With maps available for almost everywhere on planet Earth, you can just start pedaling and make it back home before dark no matter where you are, even if you’ve never been there before, and you’ll be able to find all the Thai restaurants on the way.

It’s hard to assign one feature that makes the Edge 800 so remarkable, besides the high-resolution, touch-screen display, the near-perfect GPS capabilities of Garmin’s GPS chip, the ANT+ capabilities for speed/cadence and power, and the high-level of customization. Custom maps can be used as well, such as those showing all the cycling routes and trails in an area, or any map you can find. Training regimens can be programmed and a virtual training partner used to help push you along. When you’re done riding, you can upload your data to Garmin’s own Garmin Connect to compare with others, view your route, or look for new routes. Available as a basic speed/distance setup or with cadence and heart rate for training as well, the Edge 800 is our choice for gadget of the year.

We had trouble keeping the Hans Dampf in stock all year.

Schwalbe Hans Dampf Tire- $66.99

The tire of the year award goes to the Schwalbe Hans Dampf. It takes one seriously awesome tire to virtually surpass all other mountain tires in sales and be more expensive (and it’s only been available since April!). The Hans Dampf is the perfect all mountain and trail tire. It rolls well, grips even better, is tubeless compatible, light for its size and level of protection, and performs exceptionally on every type of terrain. Jack of All Trades indeed.

Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump - $59.99-$109.99

We love the distinct look of the Classic Dirt Drive.

There is no better way to inflate your mountain bike tires than with Lezyne’s Dirt Floor Drive floor pump. Designed specifically for larger-volume mountain bike tires, the Dirt Floor Drive outperforms traditional floor pumps by a margin of at least two-to-one. This innovative pump makes life easier for dirt riders everywhere. Sorry roadies, the DFD will only pump up to seventy PSI; it’s for mountain bikes only!

For Gear of the Year honors, aesthetics is as important as performance, and the DFD comes up aces in the looks category as well. Depending on the model you purchase—Classic, Alloy, or CNC—you’ll get a classy, varnished wood or stylish aluminum handle topping off the oversized piston. Sitting inside a huge barrel, the piston can push enough air to seat tubeless tires with only normal pumping effort required. We know, we use these pumps all the time. Tubeless or conventional tires are inflated in half the time it takes to inflate a tire on a traditional high-pressure pump. Looking at the taller/wider than average Dirt Floor Drive chassis and minimalist base, you might wonder about its ability to remain upright in a cramped workspace. Don’t, because the cleverly designed base is as sturdy as they come, employing a tripod design, which uses an oversized pressure gauge as one of the supports.

What puts the latest version of the DFD into elite status is the new ABS Flip Thread Chuck. Thread-on capability for both Presta and Schrader valves, and push-button pressure release (ABS stands for Air Bleed System), allows you to effortlessly remove the chuck from your valve with no loss of pressure or damage to the valve core. Of course, if you prefer to press rather than thread on, the DFD also comes with Lezyne’s Speed Fit Chuck, which fits Presta valves only.

Giro Factor and Code Shoes - $289.99

Our staff loved Giro's shoes so much, nearly half our employees placed special orders for them.

Our favorite shoes came from an unlikely source, not heavyweights Specialized, Sidi or Shimano, but we felt newcomer Giro created the best all-around product with the top-end Factor road shoe and Code mountain shoe. The best part about these shoes is the refined fit, which feels so perfectly dialed in, they’re ready to wear right out of the box. The unrivaled fit is largely thanks to Giro’s SuperNatural Fit Kit, which provides three different arch options to customize the amount of support. Stiff carbon soles, supple yet supportive uppers and effective closure systems leave nothing to be desired. We predict Giro will carve out a huge chunk of the market in 2012 and wouldn’t be surprised to see their shoe lineup expand in years to come. An Honorable Mention goes to the Fizik R1 and R3 for the classic, retro styling and handmade Italian craftsmanship.

Swiftwick Olefin Four Aspire - $15.99/pair

Socks are socks, right? Wrong. Socks are really important - if your feet are uncomfortable, it can significantly affect your performance. Our staff is totally sold on the amazing comfort and durability of Swiftwick socks. Once you try them, they’ll be your go-to socks for every ride. Features that set the Aspire Four apart from the rest - 200-needle construction, Olefin material with seamless toe and a four inch compressive cuff. As a special bonus, you can save 15% when you buy two or more pairs! We absolutely love this sock and think you will too, which is why it made the list.

Giro Aeon Helmet - $199.99-$249.99

The aeon is crazy light and extremely well ventilated.

After years of developing an extended high-end road helmet line, Giro has finally streamlined its offerings and settled on the Aeon as the do-it-all, race-level brain case. Merging the weight of the Prolight with the ventilation of the Ionos, Giro has created the perfect helmet in the Aeon.

Registering 219 grams in a size medium, with all straps and retention systems in place, the Aeon would be a Mini Flyweight boxer. As a helmet, the Aeon disappears once you strap it on your head, thanks in equal measures to the lack of grams, the Roc Loc 5 retention system, and its design. Keeping contact points with your head minimal makes the Aeon very comfortable, and moves material to the outside of the helmet, increasing impact resistance. Upon first look, the Roc Loc 5 looks like it might be a bit obtrusive, as there is no padding on it’s plastic frame. The plastic is soft and pliable, however, and combined with the shape of the “pads” the Roc Loc 5 is as light, comfortable, and as easy to use as any tension device on the market.

If you had to judge by the defunct Prolight, there must be a trade-off between feather-weight and ventilation. The Aeon proves that isn’t true, with more vents than on an old leather hairnet helmet. Giro took advantage of two different technologies to create the Aeon; a reinforcing frame called the SL Rollcage, and a special EPS foam. Since the new thermoformed SL Rollcage—basically a second shell under the outer shell—is so effective, Giro was able to use a lower-density foam to keep weight down. Thin webbing with tiny adjusters also contribute to the increased airflow on your skin, and of course reduce weight as well.

An Honorable Mention goes out to the Kask Vertigo for its revolutionary retention system.

Shimano XTR M985 Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur

After checking out the new XTR Shadow rear derailleur , one of our mechanics remarked, “This is a real monkey touching the monolith moment’” Who can disagree? The Shimano XTR M985 Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur is a revolution in rear derailleur design, allowing the cage to swing backward, but limiting forward motion. The result is a chain that stays in tension, never slapping the stays. This derailleur is a chain guide and rear derailleur all in one.

The result of this technology is a much quieter bike and far fewer dropped chains. One employee here experimented using this derailleur with a single front chainring and only a bash guard to guide the chain. Over a one-mile trail littered with softball sized rocks, the chain never dropped. He plans on removing the bash ring soon. We can’t think of a better endorsement than that. We can’t wait to see this technology spread to all levels of mountain derailleurs.

Gore Ride-On Cable Sets - $36.99-$54.99

Cables are often overlooked and frankly a little unglamorous, but since installing Gore Professional Ride-On cables last October (2010 mind you), Brad, our components buyer, hasn’t needed to adjust his derailleurs once after the cables broke in. This bears repeating: he hasn’t even touched his cable adjustments in over a year and they still work like new. And yes, he does ride… a lot.

Niterider Pro 3000 - $649.99

Apparently Niterider grew tired of the slow-paced lumens competition, seeing each manufacturer’s output creep up by a couple-hundred L-M’s each year. In an effort to put some distance between themselves and their adversaries, Niterider teamed up with the Cree LED company (who have been supplying Light and Motion for years) and came up with the unbelievable Pro 3000, more than doubling last year’s high-output lamp without a price increase.

3000 Lumens! Are you kidding me?

The Niterider Pro 3000 uses a single head housing and two reflectors loaded with three LED bulbs each. Niterider’s mounting hardware is solid and secure—once you get the light aimed where you want it and tightened down, it won’t move. Another distinguishing feature to all the Niterider Pro series lights is the ability to customize output levels, and thus, burn times as well. This would come in handy for racing where you want a climbing mode to save energy and a descending mode to maximize visibility, with no shuffling through medium output and flash modes. All these things are nice, but really, it’s the sheer power of the Niterider Pro 3000 that we most appreciate. It’s like riding with the sun!

Runner up: Light and Motion Seca 1400. This was a tough choice since the Seca is much lighter, has a much lower profile, and has a smaller battery. In the end, though, we just couldn’t overlook the huge output of the Pro 3000.

So there you have it, our favorite products of 2011. If there are any awesome products you’ve been riding that should have made our list, or if you think any of these suck, we’d love to hear from you. Just leave a comment below.

Evan Gear, Mountain, Product Reviews, Road best bike of 2011, best cable set, best cycling sock, best cycling tire, best mountain stem, best road skewer, cervelo s5 review, code shoe, cycling gear of the year, Factor shoe, garmin edge 800, giro code, Giro shoe, hed ardennes, kask vertigo, lezyne dirt floor drive pump, niterider pro 3000, race face turbine stem, SB-66, schwalbe hans dampf, shimano xtr shadow, swiftwick, xtr shadow derailleur, yeti, yeti sb-66 review, zipp aero quick release skewers