Art’s Cyclery Blog

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I am ready to make the upgrade to 10-speed mountain components. I really want to go with XTR but I don’t have the money. Is it possible to only use some XTR components without losing too much performance? If so, where do you suggest substituting other parts?  From: Ricky

Answer: XTR on the cheap: I like it! There is no doubting the performance of Shimano’s top of the line mountain group. The current 980 version is tremendous in every respect including price, but there are some places you can save money without giving up too much in the way of shifting quality.

Spend your money on XTR shifters rather than derailleurs.

When it comes to shifting performance, rear derailleurs are highly overrated and front derailleurs are highly underrated. The rear derailleur can only be as precise as the shifter attached to the other end of the cable. Because the indexes are so small in a rear shifter a little bit of imprecision in the mechanism makes a big difference at the derailleur. Mating an XT rear derailleur or even an SLX model to an XTR rear shifter will work far better than doing the reverse as bikes are often specced from the factory. The reason product managers spec high-end rear derailleurs and cheap shifters on new bikes is because the rear derailleur is much more visible than the shifter and therefore more enticing to customers making a purchase. The big advantage that XTR rear derailleurs have at the moment is the optional Shadow + clutch that dramatically cuts down on chain noise and dropped chains making them appeal primarily to aggressive riders. This feature is coming to SLX fairly soon however. I will leave it up to you to decide how important this feature is for your riding style and how soon you want it.

With respect to front shifting, I have never used a front shifter that didn’t work great. Sure some low-end offerings don’t feel that smooth or precise but they all work reliably and never miss a shift. Your money is better spent on an XTR front derailleur. XTR derailleurs come with stiffer springs and a thicker steel cage that does not flex as much as its XT and SLX counterparts when pressed against the chain during a shift.

Go with an XT cassette over XTR - the steel cogs are more durable than the titanium XTR teeth.

As for the cassette, my recommendation would be to go for an XT block because it shifts almost identically to an XTR cassette but lasts longer because each of the cogs are made of steel rather than titanium. For cranks you can’t beat XTR but it is the most expensive component in the group. In my experience the XT and SLX chainrings shift great. The performance of XT and SLX rings is almost exactly the same and the weight difference between the two is negligible, so my budget pick for a crank is SLX.

For the chain I would just go whole hog and get XTR. The finish is better making for smoother shifts and it has more stainless steel parts making it resist rust better than the budget chains.

To sum it all up the best bang-for-the-buck XTR build would be an XTR rear shifter, SLX or Deore front shifter, XTR front derailleur, SLX rear derailleur, XT cassette, SLX crank, and XTR chain. While this combination will not produce the most cohesive looking build, I think you will love the performance. Moreover your significant other will love that the thickness of your wallet hasn’t been reduced to that of a business card by your purchase.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on ourFacebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I am having problems getting my Sram Red rear derailleur to shift down to the 11 tooth cog on my cassette. I have the limit screw backed out all the way and it still hesitates to shift. The hanger looks straight so I am baffled at what the solution is. Any ideas?  From: Andy

Answer: Experiencing redshift issues? I am no physicist but I think I can help.

First I would check the cable to make sure it is not binding in the housing. At the small end of the cassette there is very little tension on the cable because the derailleur’s return spring is not stretched very far. Check this by shifting into the large cog and then releasing all the cable tension at the shifter by up shifting. Just don’t pedal the bike so the chain will stay on the big cog. Pull on the exposed cable while performing the shifts to make sure the cable is fully released. Once you have done this you will be able to remove the cable housing from the frame’s cable stops without having to undo the cable anchor on the derailleur. This will allow you to slide the housing up and down the cable to check for drag. If there is a lot of drag, try lubing the cable with a light oil like TriFlow or T9. If this doesn’t cure the drag then replace the cable.

Using this little washer to position the derailleur further outboard is a patented secret trick.

If a binding cable is not the problem then it is time to employ a DS Secret Trick™ to alleviate your shifting woes. You need to place a washer behind the derailleur hanger bolt in order to place the derailleur further outboard thereby increasing the spring tension within the derailleur throughout the entire gear range. The type of washers I use are steel 3/8” axle washers commonly used on cruisers and bmx bikes. You can find them at the hardware store. Once the washer is installed simply readjust your limits and cable tension to compensate for the new position of the derailleur and you will be ready to charge into that 11 tooth cog for your sprint down the final straight in your next race!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I have a Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 setup on my Specialized Tarmac. The only non-Shimano part is the SRAM Red BB30 crank. I was out riding and after executing a front shift my rear derailleur pulled up and over the dropout and was torn off the hangar. The replacement derailleur cost me a pretty penny so I don’t want to repeat this problem. Any ideas on what went wrong? What can I do to prevent this problem in the future?   From: Ed

Answer: My grandpa always warned me the robots would turn on us and we wouldn’t see it coming. However, I have a plan to pacify them by feeding them high quality chains and chainrings.

In order to keep your robotic, err, electronic Di2 bike from betraying you, Shimano recommends using all Shimano components, especially a Shimano chain.

I believe your Red crank is to blame for the malfunction. A call to Shimano confirmed this is a common problem. They also informed me that non-Shimano chains have been a culprit in these situations as well. If you were using all Dura-Ace components the repair would have been covered under warranty.

Shimano’s advice to keep components in the family also applies to their mechanical groups. This is important to all of us, especially riders that purchased a new bike within the last two years. During this period I have noticed that product managers are often specing bikes with KMC chains rather than SRAM or Shimano. I suspect this is a way for manufacturers to save a couple of bucks on each bike. Back in the old days this was accomplished through the use of low-end bottom brackets but that option doesn’t exist given the latest crank and bottom bracket standards. What this means to you is that when it comes time to replace your original chain, just be sure to use the appropriate Shimano, SRAM, or Campy chain for your application.

Keep the robots happy lest they become our metal masters!

Question: I am learning how to build wheels and have put together a few wheels successfully but I am struggling to get them round. My wheels also seem to lose spoke tension quickly. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix these issues?   From: Ritchey

Answer: Wheel building is not the dark art that many make it out to be. Building good wheels just takes practice. Of course having a good teacher makes a big difference too! Wheels that de-tension do so because they are tensioned unevenly and/or are not tensioned highly enough. All of the spokes work together to keep a wheel together and like a chain, they are often as strong as their weakest link. Completing the tensioning process in the right order will help you to get and keep the tension even throughout the build process.

The key to getting wheels round is to first look for flat spots in the wheel. The sections that are flat have too much spoke tension pulling on them. Always work using even numbers of spokes so you don’t pull the rim to one side or the other. Use 2,4, or 6 spokes that span the affected area and give each of them a quarter turn clockwise to relieve the tension. Next, do the opposite for high spots by tightening the spokes in these areas. Once you get the wheel round, then get it true. For more on truing wheels, click here. After you have the wheel round and true with moderate spoke tension, add tension to each of the spokes by turning no more than a quarter turn each. It will likely take anywhere from 2-6 laps around the wheel to accomplish this.

Once the desired tension is achieved (too high is generally better than too low) then you need to stress relieve the spokes. This is the process of seating the spokes into the hub properly while straightening out the bow just above the j-bend. First, press this area down with your thumbs to get it straight (you can do this earlier in the build too). Second, squeeze the parallel spokes on each side by gripping two at a time in each hand, on each side, and squeezing them together. Keep the squeezing motion parallel with the rim. Don’t worry about pulling the wheel out of true. Doing each side simultaneously will largely prevent this from happening. Work your way around the wheel and then check your tension.

At this point the tension is likely to have dropped. So, add a quarter turn at a time until the original tension is restored and repeat the stress relieving process. Once this is done, do a final truing and you should be good to go.

When you do become a proficient wheel builder, don’t give me or anyone else the credit, just act as though you have mastered a voodoo process that only those in tune with the vibrations of the cosmos can fully comprehend. At least that is what most wheel builders do, so you will be in good company!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: On a recent ride I was taken out by a distracted driver and laid down my bike. The damage doesn’t look too bad. I am riding a Specialized Tarmac SL2 with all stock parts. I am concerned about the possibility the carbon may be damaged and I want to know what to look for so I can be sure my bike is still safe to ride.  From: Jacob

Answer: You have my sympathy Jacob. Cyclists are unfortunately treated as third-class citizens with respect to transportation in the United States. Pedestrians are of course the second-class citizens. It seems like motorists can run down cyclists with near impunity while only receiving a fine for their misdeeds. Pedestrian homicide is merely frowned upon and likely to result in a felony charge of some kind, while killing another driver will certainly land you in serious trouble. Before this rant gets out of control I will do my best to focus my aggression on getting you riding again.

Click on this image to see an enlightening discussion exposing why motorists hate cyclists.

Ok, focus… You need to make a thorough inspection that includes removing the handlebar tape, handlebar, stem, and fork from the bike. Inspect each part along its entire length while paying special attention to clamping areas and the fork crown. I use a flashlight to help expose any cracks that may be hiding among the black fibers. Any areas found that are cracked, crushed, or dented should be replaced. As expensive as this may be, it is far cheaper than medical bills or reconstructive dental work.

While you have the fork off, shine your light inside your headtube to look for any potential damage that was invisible on the outside. Then check the rest of the bike over from stem to stern and look for anything that is damaged or out of place. The flashlight is your friend on this task as well if your bike is painted a dark color.

If you still don’t feel good about the bike after looking it over your Specialized dealer can offer you a crash replacement frame and fork at a deeply discounted rate that often is close to half-off the retail price. Just keep in mind that carbon bikes are amazingly strong. It takes either a truly massive hit to do one in or a very focused smaller impact that is far less common. A careful inspection will help you avoid the latter of the two.

Soldier on Jacob and keep smiling.

Question: I need some lower gears for my road bike for some extended steep roads I will be doing on my next riding trip. Currently, I am running Ultegra 6500 10 speed shifters with a 50/34 compact crank and an 11-28 cassette. Is there anyway I can use a mountain cassette? Do I need a triple derailleur?  From: Chris

Run a 9-speed mountain derailleur on your road bike with a 36t cassette for mountain goat-like upward mobility.

Answer: Bass… How low can you go? Death row? If that reference got past you then click here. There is an easy solution to your problem that will enable your dreams of masochistic climbing bliss along the world’s steepest roads.

What you need is a 9-speed mountain derailleur to replace your Ultegra unit. Don’t be tempted to try a 10-speed mountain derailleur as they utilize a different cable pull ratio and are incompatible. The 9-speed derailleur will work with cassettes with a 36t low gear which will give you a more than low enough gear for any paved road.

Keep climbing Chris, all the way to the stars!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I was thinking of hanging the extra tires that I have to “cure” them upstairs in my loft. It is pretty dry and hot up in that area. Will this affect the tire over time?  From: Charles

Answer: For aging to occur gracefully it cannot be rushed. If you grow up too quick your adulthood will likely resemble a misspent youth, or worse, your therapy bill will exceed the funds spent on our beloved sport. Although our fast paced modern lives and our chosen sport continually pushes for greater speed, sometimes taking things slowly is the best path to follow. This is one of those cases.

I have always advised customers that wanted to cure/age their tires, or simply store them safely, that the best place to do this is in a humidity neutral area with a consistent temperature range somewhere between 50-80 degrees. Constant temperatures are best. Wide variances in temperature or extremes will crack the tire tread. The most important thing to avoid is sunlight as the UV rays will kill a tire’s performance quickly. Of course riding in the sun is not the same thing as storing a tire in the sun as the tire is exposed to the sun evenly when riding unlike it would in a storage location. I keep mine in a closet under the stairs where there is no light, constant humidity and little temperature variance. Basements tend to work well too. With that said, the practice of aging tires is overrated.

Blind tests administered to wine tasting experts reveal that even their sensitive pallets are often unable to distinguish with any consistency between a $10 bottle and $50 bottle. I suspect the same holds for cyclists riding aged tubulars or clinchers if they were put to a similar test. So don’t worry about “curing” your tires so much as storing them safely. There is greater potential for damaging your tire than improving the ride when placing a tire in storage for an extended period.

Ingratiate your desire for instantaneous gains in performance by mounting up your new tires today. Don’t delay reveling in your newfound speed until some unknown point of perfect rubber maturity is reached. Carpe Diem Charles, Carpe Diem!

Question: My 2005 Specialized Enduro is creaking and I can’t figure out where it is coming from. First I thought it was the bottom bracket so I took it out and cleaned it, lubed it, and then reinstalled it. The creak was still there. I then cleaned and lubed all the pivots, but that wasn’t it either. I am really frustrated and I am about to give up. Any ideas on where it might be coming from?   From: Mike

Answer: If a “river runs through” the life of a fly fisherman, then a “creak” certainly runs through the life of a bicycle mechanic. Of course that “creak” is polluted with damaged innertubes, drivetrain gunk, and suspension fork oil, but I digress.

The trick to fixing creaks is by using thoughtful elimination of potential sources. For example, if the creak stops when you are standing, then the creak is coming from the saddle or seatpost. If the noise only occurs on the left or right down stroke of the pedal, then it is likely a pedal or cleat on that side of the bike. Careful listening can also get you closer to identifying where the noise originated.

In your case you have eliminated the most common causes of creaks without success, which does help to make the search for the creak easier. Before going any further I should emphasize that just because the bottom bracket and suspension pivots are the most common source of creaks that does not automatically mean the creak is emanating from that area, or that those are the first places to look. Your experience helps to prove this. I would estimate that bottom brackets and pivots are the culprits for 40% or less of the creaks I find on customers’ mountain bikes.

Assuming that you eliminated the cockpit area by torquing on the bars, I suspect the creak is coming from either your wheels or your rear derailleur hanger. Grease your skewers and the area where the derailleur hanger meets the frame. Then check your hubs to make sure they are adjusted properly. Most of those bikes came with Shimano Deore rear hubs with adjustable loose ball bearings. These hubs are prone to working their way loose, especially when ridden hard. Borrow a wheel from a friend and install it on your bike to see if the creak goes away. If so, it is time for you to dance a little jig of joy and then overhaul your rear hub. Happy trails, Mike!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: Even though ‘cross season just ended I am already dreaming up my race bike for next year. The new electronic Shimano Ultegra group looks perfect for ‘cross since it doesn’t have shifter cables to get contaminated in the dirt and mud. The problem is that I want to use a 1×10 setup. Is this possible with Ultegra Ui2 or do I need to use a front derailleur for it to work?  From: Andrew

Dreaming of running electronic shifting on your cross bike? Consider a 1x10 setup with Ultegra Di2.

Even though ‘cross sensation and current national champion Jeremy “J-Pow” Powers rides for SRAM which does not currently have an electronic group, I can imagine J-Pow at some time in the future spinning one of his personally made DJ tracks featuring a derailleur servo sample. I can hear the future of ‘cross shifting and it is at the core of a techno-house track.

Question: I have a pair of Mavic Kysrium SL wheels that are about 4 years old and I am having some problems with them. The front hub feels loose and has side-to-side play that I can’t seem to adjust out. Also, my rear wheel makes a weird noise at high speed, but the noise goes away when I slow down. I can’t figure it out. Any ideas?  From: Mark

Answer: Like the hands of the clock, so are the wheels of our lives. They continue to turn day after day with little thought given to them until their movements cease to smoothly advance or simply halt altogether. Mark, I am afraid the bearings in your front hub are shot. But, at least they made it four years before giving up the ghost.

With respect to your rear wheel, the noise problem you are experiencing is quite common with Mavic hubs. The bushing that the freehub body rides on is either dry, contaminated, or worn out. It is catching on the hub intermittently at high speed and generating the pulsing sound that you are experiencing.

Thankfully, the fix is simple. Remove the skewer and cassette before removing the cover/face of the non-drive side of the axle that is held in by an o-ring. Inside the axle you will find a hex broach for a 10mm allen wrench. With a 10mm allen on the non-drive and a 5mm allen on the drive side, unscrew the axle in order to liberate the freehub body from the hub. Be careful as you remove it because there are loose pawls inside that will spring loose only to di

sappear into the ether. After removing the freehub body, clean the inside with degreaser. Do the same with the pawls.

Mavic's steel freehub bodies are tough to wear out and are cheaper to replace than an entire wheelset.

Once everything is clean, lube the bushing in the freehub body and the springs with hydraulic brake mineral oil or 5-weight suspension fork oil. Lube the rubber seal that contacts the back of the freehub body as well. I know this type of oil is an unusual lubrication recommendation but Mavic recommended this to me years ago and it really does work well. Any other lube will damage the bushing and/or cause it to catch the hub at high speed thereby creating the problem you are trying to fix. The recommendation makes sense because suspension fork bushings are lubricated using the same product.

After reassembling everything (don’t forget the washer inside the freehub body) if you are still experiencing the same problem or notice excessive play, then the bushing is worn you’ll need a new freehub body.

This will silence the specter in your rear wheel and return you to the blissful paradise from which you were wrestled; a station where time and miles pass by nearly unnoticed beneath your wheels.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: Can I use Shimano outboard bearing bottom bracket cups from a Dura-Ace road crank on my Shimano XT mountain cranks? They look like they are the same, so it should work right?  From: Carl

Answer: Looks can be deceiving Carl. Much like the lady at the local watering hole that looked great until your sobriety returned, bike parts often promise compatibility by beguiling us with their fancy labels and comely machined edges, only to disappoint us when they are fully assembled. This is one of those cases.

Looks can be deceiving - these Dura Ace BB cups won't work with mountain cranks, even though they may look compatible.

This is why calipers can be a mechanic’s best friend. When applied to the parts in question, the calipers revealed that the road cups are too narrow to work with mountain cranks. Resist the temptation to simply add spacers behind the cups to shim them to the correct width. If you do this there will not be enough threads left on the cup to safely engage the bottom bracket shell threads in your frame. Avoid the heartbreak of destroying a frame by attempting to save $30 on the correct bottom bracket.

Just because some of you readers may be wondering if a mountain bottom bracket will work with a road crank, the answer to that question is also, “No.” It is too wide and will ruin your chainline while leaving an unsafe amount of spline interface between the bottom bracket spindle and the left crank arm.

Pay no heed to the siren song of rigged compatibility between components and you will be a happy man Carl.

Question: What is the deal with tire width measurements? Many manufacturers claim to make tires that are the same width but there is a huge discrepancy in width from one brand to another. How do I know which tires are marked correctly without mounting them?  From: Brandon

Answer: Humans are prone to exaggeration. This is especially true when it comes to lengths and widths. Just ask any of our buddies at Tackle Warehouse how big the bass was they caught last weekend! Or, just ask your girlfriend what dress size she wears for a reverse of the bass example! Tires tend to follow the bass model.

However, exaggeration is only one part of the problem. Rim width, tire manufacturing variances, air pressure, tubeless vs. tubed installation, the age of the tire, and even the design of the rim’s bead hook will have an effect on tire width. For example a Continental Grand Prix 700x23c is true to size when mounted on a standard 19mm wide road rim. But put the same tire on a wide Hed Belgium rim, and the width grows to around 28! The profile increases as well, though not as dramatically. Tires that are mounted tubeless have a greater tendency to stretch after they have been installed for a month or so. Mountain tires can grow as much as 10mm due to casing stretch (tubed tires stretch too, it just takes much longer). Then there is the issue with mountain tires of whether the manufacturer is measuring the casing width or the knob width. Each manufacturer does it differently. With some tires the knobs are the widest part of the tire, and in others it is the casing.

Unfortunately, the only way to really know a tire’s width is to mount the tire on a rim and measure it. That is why we are mounting tires and taking our own measurements and posting them in the product description so that you don’t have to. We use standard width rims to best approximate what most of our customers use. Specifically, we use a WTB Laser TCS trail rim with a 21mm inner width and inflate the tires to 32 psi. If your rim is wider or narrower, take the difference between our rim width and yours and multiply it by .75 and you will get the approximate difference in tire width for your application. We also use tubes to take these measurements because it is impractical to do a tubeless mounting for every tire we carry since we would have to give away the test tire after it was coated in sealant. Plus there is the time delay issue of tire stretch that would require us to age each tire before measuring. A safe approximation is to add 5mm (~ 0.2”) to our measurement of the width of any mountain tire that you plan to mount tubeless.

Some basic generalizations that apply to tire width by manufacturer are as follows: Michelin and WTB tires run narrow. Specialized, Schwalbe, and Continental tires generally run true to size with respect to width but tend to have a tall profile. Maxxis mountain tires are now true to size after being narrow for many years. Just remember that these are all generalizations and that some tire models within these brands don’t fit the stereotype. The WTB 2.4 Mutano Raptor is a prime example, as they tend to be true to size. Oftentimes manufacturers will describe tires as being “high volume.” This tends to refer to the profile rather than the tread or casing width. High volume tires offer a cushier ride and better traction in the rough stuff. We will let you know in our description if this claim is true or not, or if the manufacturer should have claimed it but didn’t.

In the end though, it isn’t about how big your tires are; it is how you ride them that matters!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

After months of hype and speculation, Cervélo has finally released the specifications for the P5 time trial super-bike. The bike is a complete re-design of the P4, with a ton of new features and a visually striking profile. The P5 brakes new ground on several fronts, perhaps most notably is the utilization of hydraulic brakes, which are produced by Magura. The motto for the P5 is “Simply Faster,” which according to Cervélo’s co-founder and CEO means, the bike “is not only fast, but simple and easy to live with.”

The new P5 will be available in two models - one for triathlon and one that is UCI legal. This is the tri version.

Frameset

The P5 frameset is Cervélo’s most aerodynamic ever, with a time saving of ~30-seconds in a 40-kilometer time trial, according to Cervélo. The P5 also features the BBright bottom bracket for ultimate power transfer and ComfortPly technology which removes unnecessary material to reduce vibration and improve ride quality. The P5 frame is the same on the triathlon and time trial versions of the bike, which means there aren’t any ridiculously deep tube shapes like the down tube on the Specialized Shiv. The fork on the tri version features much deeper blades than the UCI legal model and has a fairing that covers the hydraulic brake caliper. The P5 is also optimized to handle wider tires because of the trend toward wider wheels, popularized by Zipp and HED.

Aerobar

The integrated Aduro aerobar has been designed by Cervélo and manufactured by 3T. It features 100% hidden cables that eliminate aero drag and engineered cable paths that minimize bends and maximize shifting performance. The Arduro can be set up in three stack height configurations for over 11cm of adjustment and consists of only a few parts so assembly and adjustments are easy. Designed to match perfectly with the brake, fork and frame, the front end forms a single aerodynamic body for “flawless aerodynamic performance,” according to Cervélo.

The 3T aerobars have 11cm of stack height adjustability.

Brakes

The P5 is the first time trial bike to utilize hydraulic rim brakes in production. Made by Magura, the RT 8TTT system is compatible with all road wheels and mounts to any standard basebar. Stopping power is abundant with quick response to rider input. Plus, this hydraulic system is lighter than most cable brake setups.

The Magura RT 8TT hydraulic system is low maintenance and lighter than most cable setups.

Storage and Hydration

Designed for speed and versatility, a full range of sleek and intuitive storage solutions have been custom designed for the P5. From a bottle cage mount between the aerobar pads to a Shimano Di2 battery holder inside the frame’s HiddenPocket to multiple locations for nutrition, the P5 mates optimal aero locations with east of access.

A bottle cage will fit neatly between the aerobars and a storage box attached to the top tube.

Availability and Pricing

We expect the P5 to arrive around mid March. The tri frameset will retail for $6,500 while the complete Di2 bike will be $10,000. The UCI frameset will go for $4,500 and the complete Dura-Ace bike will be $6,500.

Evan Gear, Industry, Product Reviews, Road

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I weigh about 230lbs and wanted to “ride some weight off.” On my very first time out – new tires and all, I had a flat and have since been shy about riding because I just don’t care to change a flat every trip. Aside from carrying a repair kit – which I did – is there a reliable preventative measure I could take in the future? From: Jim

Answer: Given your weight, you have a high likelihood of incurring pinch-flats or snakebites. The term snakebite comes from the twin holes made in an innertube when it is pinched between the road and your rim.

The Hardshell casing on the Gatorskin wraps further into the sidewall and an extra-wide PolyX Breaker covers the entire tread strip from shoulder-to-shoulder.

If the source of your flats is from a foreign object puncturing the tire then the same armored tires that I recommended for you should help to ward off this type of problem as well.

There are two ways to avoid this type of flat. One is to use high air pressure. In your case 115-120 psi would be good. The other way to prevent this type of flat is to use an armored tire. While there are a plethora of armored tires on the market, the ones you need have an armored sidewall as well as an armored tread. Examples of this type of tire include, but are not limited to, Continental Gatorskin Hardshell tires and the Schwalbe Ultremo DD HD tire. The thicker sidewall found in these tires will cushion and protect your innertube when it is pinched. Downhill mountain bike tires have used this type of protection for over a decade to prevent the same problem.

The nuclear option for flat prevention is to switch to road tubeless. The beauty of road tubeless is that they can’t pinch flat unless you nail them hard enough to destroy your rim too. Even better when you get a puncture, the foreign object seals the hole until it is removed. When it is removed, there is sealant waiting to seal the tire so you can keep rolling. Lastly, tubeless road tires handle better than all of the armored tires offering more grip and a much smoother ride.

Whichever solution you choose, ride hard and watch out for those snakes!

Question: I want to shed some weight on my mountain bike but I don’t have a lot of money to do it. The other challenge is that I don’t want to give up reliability or performance. Any suggestions?  From: Bill

Answer: You sound like a hard guy to please Bill, but that doesn’t mean I won’t try to. What can I say; sometimes a guy just wants everything. I know I do! Well, I have good news for you because your seemingly impossible desire is actually achievable. In fact, I think I can improve the performance of your bike with some of these relatively inexpensive suggestions.

Every weight weenie knows that taking weight off your wheels is the best way to improve a bike’s handling while making the climbs significantly easier (or, faster and just as hard if you are into that). This does not mean you need to drop two grand on a carbon wheelset to drop some weight, although to quote Ferris Beuller, “If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.”

I bet I can actually drop a half-pound off of your bike for under $20. Just switching to ultra light tubes can take around 100g off of each wheel without any sacrifice in performance. Many old school riders will tell you that ultra light tubes are unreliable but I have experienced no degradation in reliability with them. Let’s be honest with ourselves here. If a thorn gets through a 0.5mm thick tube, it will get through 1.0mm thick tube also.

A lightweight tire like the Schwalbe Racing Ralph will shed grams without sacrificing grip.

If you already have tubeless rated tires and are using tubes, you can drop between 50-100g per wheel by converting to tubeless. This typically involves just adding some sealing tape to the rim and an aftermarket tubeless valve. Check out this blog I posted a while back for tubeless compatibility issues. This weight loss solution costs less than $30 and will dramatically improve both reliability and traction.

Another option is to switch to lighter tires whether they be tubeless or tubed tires. Schwalbe makes a number of light tires that have outstanding grip for their weight. A pair of tires will run you $130. This may sound like a lot but compared to the price of a new wheelset they are a steal. When you factor in the improved grip and the fact that you can save a comparable amount of weight by switching tires rather than switching wheels and using your old tires, the choice is a no-brainer.

So there is some food for thought that will hopefully satiate your hunger for a lighter steed. Keep the rubber side down and ride in peace my friend.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Evan Ask a Mechanic

The 2012 Garmin-Barracuda Team Jersey.

We can’t wait for the Tour Down Under to start this weekend so we can finally talk about racing again. But until then, we are left to discuss other news, such as Garmin-Cervelo’s new team name and kit.

Garmin-Cervelo will now be known as Garmin-Barracuda and is reverting back to the argyle design that graced the Slipstream jerseys of yesteryear. In case you were wondering, Barracuda Networks is a software company that provides security, networking and storage solutions. It’s too bad Cervelo is no longer a title sponsor, but it’s great that the team could pick up another high-profile sponsor.

Check out the aero dimples.

The new kit is very similar to the special edition Tour de France jersey the team raced in last year with blue argyle on the bottom and white across the mid-section. Castelli improved what is already the most comfortable pair of bib shorts on the planet by adding dimples on the fabric of the thighs to reduce aerodynamic drag. Castelli also claims the Aero Race Jersey will save 10 watts at 40km/h compared to a standard cycling jersey.

We can’t help but take note how many teams will be sporting blue motifs in 2012. One of the best parts about watching cycling on TV is the dazzling rainbow of colors that comprise the mercurial globule that is the Pro Peloton. This year, Garmin-Barracuda, Saxo Bank, Omega Pharma-Quick Step and Team Sky will all ride in kits that feature some shade of blue as the primary color. Can you imagine a four-man breakaway forming with a rider from each of these teams? It’d be more than a little tough to tell them apart.

Another interesting tidbit that came out of this announcement was that mountain bike brake manufacturer Magura has signed on as a Garmin-Barracuda team sponsor. Rumor has it that Magura is launching some new road components this year, possibly hydraulic brakes for road and TT frames. After months of hype, Cervelo will finally unveil the new P5 triathlon/TT bike on January 18th, perhaps outfitted with some fancy new Magura brakes? We’ll soon find out and you can bet we’ll have more information about it here when the news brakes, pun definitely intended.

We’ll leave you with this video of Garmin-Barracuda pro Christophe Le Mevel training in the new kit on a snowy European mountain. If you are the type of rider who hides in the basement spending lonely hours on the trainer, this will hopefully inspire you to get out and ride.

Click on the image to see the video.

Evan Gear, Races and racing, Road