Fox's Low Pro is perhaps the perfect small hydration pack.

Fox Low Pro

The Fox Low Pro is a great example of what a minimalist pack should be. It’s light, small, yet holds 70 ounces (two liters) of water—enough for at least two hours, depending on the temperature—and has a real storage compartment. The  main pocket has room for a full tube repair arsenal, plus a good-sized multi tool and a chain breaker. The bungee on the outside of the pack has room for a wind shell, arm, and knee warmers.

Camelback Charge LR

Backpackers know that keeping your pack weight low is important for balance, endurance, and comfort. Camelbak knows this too, which is why most of their multi-sport packs feature a reservoir located on the bottom of the pack. 2012’s Charge LR gets the Antidote lumbar reservoir, keeping water weight low for improved balance, endurance, and comfort, and allowing for a narrower footprint. There is still plenty of storage on the Charge LR, and enough water in it’s 70 ounce reservoir for an afternoon of riding.

Dakine Drafter

The Dakine Drafter opens fully for easy access to repair items.

Ever since the first time I rode with a Dakine Drafter, it’s been my favorite pack, and 2012 sees the Drafter back in all its glory. With armor straps and a helmet carry capable of an XC or DH lid, it’s an all-mountain rider’s perfect pack. Even if you don’t use knee guards and keep your helmet on your head at all times, the Drafter is a fabulous pack with tons of storage options and a comfortable back panel.

So there are some recommendations to get you started on your hydration pack decision. Look for in-depth reviews throughout the season.

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I have a disc rotor bolt with a stripped head that is stuck in my hub so I can’t replace my old brake rotor. Do you know of a way to get it out without using power tools that might do more damage? From: Larry

Answer: Well Larry it looks like your rotor is in a situation everyone fears: being stuck between a rock and hard place. It is time to apply an unstoppable force (humanity’s intelligence) to this immovable object.

The first thing to do is counterintuitive. Replace the other 5 bolts into the hub that you already removed and tighten them to the maximum recommended torque. This will lessen the strain on the one bolt that is stuck. Then take your t-25 torx wrench and hammer it into the bolt head so that it can engage what is left of the splines. It is a good idea to use a cheap torx tool such as the ones that come packaged with an Avid brake so that you don’t ruin your good tool. Then, while pressing down hard on the tool, slowly and steadily add counter-clockwise torque (anti-clockwise to the decedents of those guys we beat during the revolution) until the bolt releases.*

If this fails to unseat the bolt it is time to use an extraction tool. There are many on the market. I typically use what is called an “easy out” using only hand tools. However most extraction tools are designed to work with power drills that are typically some variation of a reverse drill bit. If the bolt is really rounded out then even these won’t work.

While some of you reading this may be tempted to use a Dremel to cut a slot into the bolt head and use a screwdriver to remove the bolt, don’t do it. This rarely works, as it is difficult to apply enough torque using a screwdriver. Plus, you risk damaging the rotor and hub.

If all else fails, the head of the bolt needs to be drilled. Select a drill bit that is just barely larger than the bolt’s shaft diameter to get the job done. Once the head is removed the tension on the bolt will be released and you should be able to remove the bolt with a set of vise grips.

If what is left of the bolt is still frozen inside the hub, then just leave the little nub there. 5 steel rotor bolts is strong enough to get the job done without any worry of failure. It is not uncommon for racers to use only 4 or 3 bolts per rotor although I strongly recommend that you do not do this. 5-10 grams of weight saving is not worth the risk of a brake failure or ovalizing your rotor’s mounting points.

Don’t let that last bit scare you as this rarely happens. As you work, keep in mind that few endeavors produce the unique elation that comes from removing a stripped bolt. Should you experience this elation, share your bicycle repair derived good cheer with others.

*The procedure described in this paragraph also works for removing a stripped fork steerer clamping bolt on a stem.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

So when we heard The North Face was making mountain bike apparel, we were a little skeptical at first. What could these guys provide that’s better than what’s already out there? The answer is the same reason the brand has stuck around for as long as it has - The North Face has maintained an unwavering commitment to creating high quality, sustainable, functional products that deliver on performance. When The North Face decides to produce something, they don’t just throw stuff on the shelves with the expectation it will sell simply because it’s stamped with the half dome logo. The collection we have in our store is the result of years of product testing and refinement and we think there are some really great pieces that will appeal to a variety of riders.

The Chain Ring Tee feels like a cotton shirt but is made of a technical fabric to wick sweat. Available in 4 colors.

We love the fact that The North Face is so committed to sourcing sustainable materials, increasing its energy efficiency in product production and lowering its overall environmental impact. The North Face works closely with Bluesign, an independent organization that sets industry standards for sustainability. To learn more about The North Face’s comprehensive approach to sustainability, click here. It really is an impressive undertaking for such a large company.

Now, let’s check out some products. My personal favorites in the collection are the Chain Ring Tee and Chain Ring Shorts. The tee looks and feels like a regular T-Shirt, but it’s made of VaporWick fabric so it wicks sweat away from your skin. This is a true two-in-one top - wear it on the trails or just cruising around town. I love the mountain biker’s take on The North Face logo with chain rings in place of the standard stripes.

The outer shell of the shorts is made of a durable, water repellent fabric that’s as breathable as it is tough. Zippered thigh vents help to keep the air flowing as your body heats up. The four-way stretch seamless chamois has plush microfiber padding to reduce friction points and relieve pressure in key areas. The chamois is also infused with fibers that reduce odor and regulate temperature.

The Chain Ring Short is rugged yet comfortable with a nice chamois, thigh vents and a durable, water repellent shell.

Two front hand pockets are cleverly lined with mesh and one zipped cargo pocket provides ample storage. An optics wipe will conveniently clean your sunglasses or goggles and a brushed elastic waistband ensures your shorts won’t slide down or ride up. Additional features include reinforced stitching throughout all stress zones, a raised waistband for extra coverage, a seamless crotch panel and a reflective logo.

For really crappy weather rides, the Bracket Jacket is a must-have. This bike-specific shell is made of a water and windproof material that remains breathable even when you’re hammering on the trail. Technical features include elbow stretch vents and a removable hood that fits over a helmet. You’ll see several of our employees working the sales floor in the Chain Ring Hoodie. It may look like a normal sweatshirt upon first glance, but it’s actually made of a technical wind resistant material that can handle all but the most intense athletic pursuits.

The collection is pretty small compared to the massive catalog you’ll find from a company like Fox. One thing missing that I’d like to see in the future is a more substantial glove collection. But I anticipate The North Face taking off in our store and in bike specialty stores around the country because of the power behind the brand and the quality of the products.

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: Even though ‘cross season just ended I am already dreaming up my race bike for next year. The new electronic Shimano Ultegra group looks perfect for ‘cross since it doesn’t have shifter cables to get contaminated in the dirt and mud. The problem is that I want to use a 1×10 setup. Is this possible with Ultegra Ui2 or do I need to use a front derailleur for it to work?  From: Andrew

Dreaming of running electronic shifting on your cross bike? Consider a 1x10 setup with Ultegra Di2.

Even though ‘cross sensation and current national champion Jeremy “J-Pow” Powers rides for SRAM which does not currently have an electronic group, I can imagine J-Pow at some time in the future spinning one of his personally made DJ tracks featuring a derailleur servo sample. I can hear the future of ‘cross shifting and it is at the core of a techno-house track.

Question: I have a pair of Mavic Kysrium SL wheels that are about 4 years old and I am having some problems with them. The front hub feels loose and has side-to-side play that I can’t seem to adjust out. Also, my rear wheel makes a weird noise at high speed, but the noise goes away when I slow down. I can’t figure it out. Any ideas?  From: Mark

Answer: Like the hands of the clock, so are the wheels of our lives. They continue to turn day after day with little thought given to them until their movements cease to smoothly advance or simply halt altogether. Mark, I am afraid the bearings in your front hub are shot. But, at least they made it four years before giving up the ghost.

With respect to your rear wheel, the noise problem you are experiencing is quite common with Mavic hubs. The bushing that the freehub body rides on is either dry, contaminated, or worn out. It is catching on the hub intermittently at high speed and generating the pulsing sound that you are experiencing.

Thankfully, the fix is simple. Remove the skewer and cassette before removing the cover/face of the non-drive side of the axle that is held in by an o-ring. Inside the axle you will find a hex broach for a 10mm allen wrench. With a 10mm allen on the non-drive and a 5mm allen on the drive side, unscrew the axle in order to liberate the freehub body from the hub. Be careful as you remove it because there are loose pawls inside that will spring loose only to di

sappear into the ether. After removing the freehub body, clean the inside with degreaser. Do the same with the pawls.

Mavic's steel freehub bodies are tough to wear out and are cheaper to replace than an entire wheelset.

Once everything is clean, lube the bushing in the freehub body and the springs with hydraulic brake mineral oil or 5-weight suspension fork oil. Lube the rubber seal that contacts the back of the freehub body as well. I know this type of oil is an unusual lubrication recommendation but Mavic recommended this to me years ago and it really does work well. Any other lube will damage the bushing and/or cause it to catch the hub at high speed thereby creating the problem you are trying to fix. The recommendation makes sense because suspension fork bushings are lubricated using the same product.

After reassembling everything (don’t forget the washer inside the freehub body) if you are still experiencing the same problem or notice excessive play, then the bushing is worn you’ll need a new freehub body.

This will silence the specter in your rear wheel and return you to the blissful paradise from which you were wrestled; a station where time and miles pass by nearly unnoticed beneath your wheels.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: Can I use Shimano outboard bearing bottom bracket cups from a Dura-Ace road crank on my Shimano XT mountain cranks? They look like they are the same, so it should work right?  From: Carl

Answer: Looks can be deceiving Carl. Much like the lady at the local watering hole that looked great until your sobriety returned, bike parts often promise compatibility by beguiling us with their fancy labels and comely machined edges, only to disappoint us when they are fully assembled. This is one of those cases.

Looks can be deceiving - these Dura Ace BB cups won't work with mountain cranks, even though they may look compatible.

This is why calipers can be a mechanic’s best friend. When applied to the parts in question, the calipers revealed that the road cups are too narrow to work with mountain cranks. Resist the temptation to simply add spacers behind the cups to shim them to the correct width. If you do this there will not be enough threads left on the cup to safely engage the bottom bracket shell threads in your frame. Avoid the heartbreak of destroying a frame by attempting to save $30 on the correct bottom bracket.

Just because some of you readers may be wondering if a mountain bottom bracket will work with a road crank, the answer to that question is also, “No.” It is too wide and will ruin your chainline while leaving an unsafe amount of spline interface between the bottom bracket spindle and the left crank arm.

Pay no heed to the siren song of rigged compatibility between components and you will be a happy man Carl.

Question: What is the deal with tire width measurements? Many manufacturers claim to make tires that are the same width but there is a huge discrepancy in width from one brand to another. How do I know which tires are marked correctly without mounting them?  From: Brandon

Answer: Humans are prone to exaggeration. This is especially true when it comes to lengths and widths. Just ask any of our buddies at Tackle Warehouse how big the bass was they caught last weekend! Or, just ask your girlfriend what dress size she wears for a reverse of the bass example! Tires tend to follow the bass model.

However, exaggeration is only one part of the problem. Rim width, tire manufacturing variances, air pressure, tubeless vs. tubed installation, the age of the tire, and even the design of the rim’s bead hook will have an effect on tire width. For example a Continental Grand Prix 700×23c is true to size when mounted on a standard 19mm wide road rim. But put the same tire on a wide Hed Belgium rim, and the width grows to around 28! The profile increases as well, though not as dramatically. Tires that are mounted tubeless have a greater tendency to stretch after they have been installed for a month or so. Mountain tires can grow as much as 10mm due to casing stretch (tubed tires stretch too, it just takes much longer). Then there is the issue with mountain tires of whether the manufacturer is measuring the casing width or the knob width. Each manufacturer does it differently. With some tires the knobs are the widest part of the tire, and in others it is the casing.

Unfortunately, the only way to really know a tire’s width is to mount the tire on a rim and measure it. That is why we are mounting tires and taking our own measurements and posting them in the product description so that you don’t have to. We use standard width rims to best approximate what most of our customers use. Specifically, we use a WTB Laser TCS trail rim with a 21mm inner width and inflate the tires to 32 psi. If your rim is wider or narrower, take the difference between our rim width and yours and multiply it by .75 and you will get the approximate difference in tire width for your application. We also use tubes to take these measurements because it is impractical to do a tubeless mounting for every tire we carry since we would have to give away the test tire after it was coated in sealant. Plus there is the time delay issue of tire stretch that would require us to age each tire before measuring. A safe approximation is to add 5mm (~ 0.2”) to our measurement of the width of any mountain tire that you plan to mount tubeless.

Some basic generalizations that apply to tire width by manufacturer are as follows: Michelin and WTB tires run narrow. Specialized, Schwalbe, and Continental tires generally run true to size with respect to width but tend to have a tall profile. Maxxis mountain tires are now true to size after being narrow for many years. Just remember that these are all generalizations and that some tire models within these brands don’t fit the stereotype. The WTB 2.4 Mutano Raptor is a prime example, as they tend to be true to size. Oftentimes manufacturers will describe tires as being “high volume.” This tends to refer to the profile rather than the tread or casing width. High volume tires offer a cushier ride and better traction in the rough stuff. We will let you know in our description if this claim is true or not, or if the manufacturer should have claimed it but didn’t.

In the end though, it isn’t about how big your tires are; it is how you ride them that matters!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

After months of hype and speculation, Cervélo has finally released the specifications for the P5 time trial super-bike. The bike is a complete re-design of the P4, with a ton of new features and a visually striking profile. The P5 brakes new ground on several fronts, perhaps most notably is the utilization of hydraulic brakes, which are produced by Magura. The motto for the P5 is “Simply Faster,” which according to Cervélo’s co-founder and CEO means, the bike “is not only fast, but simple and easy to live with.”

The new P5 will be available in two models - one for triathlon and one that is UCI legal. This is the tri version.

Frameset

Aerobar

The integrated Aduro aerobar has been designed by Cervélo and manufactured by 3T. It features 100% hidden cables that eliminate aero drag and engineered cable paths that minimize bends and maximize shifting performance. The Arduro can be set up in three stack height configurations for over 11cm of adjustment and consists of only a few parts so assembly and adjustments are easy. Designed to match perfectly with the brake, fork and frame, the front end forms a single aerodynamic body for “flawless aerodynamic performance,” according to Cervélo.

The 3T aerobars have 11cm of stack height adjustability.

Brakes

The P5 is the first time trial bike to utilize hydraulic rim brakes in production. Made by Magura, the RT 8TTT system is compatible with all road wheels and mounts to any standard basebar. Stopping power is abundant with quick response to rider input. Plus, this hydraulic system is lighter than most cable brake setups.

The Magura RT 8TT hydraulic system is low maintenance and lighter than most cable setups.

Storage and Hydration

Designed for speed and versatility, a full range of sleek and intuitive storage solutions have been custom designed for the P5. From a bottle cage mount between the aerobar pads to a Shimano Di2 battery holder inside the frame’s HiddenPocket to multiple locations for nutrition, the P5 mates optimal aero locations with east of access.

A bottle cage will fit neatly between the aerobars and a storage box attached to the top tube.

Availability and Pricing

We expect the P5 to arrive around mid March. The tri frameset will retail for $6,500 while the complete Di2 bike will be $10,000. The UCI frameset will go for $4,500 and the complete Dura-Ace bike will be $6,500.

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I weigh about 230lbs and wanted to “ride some weight off.” On my very first time out – new tires and all, I had a flat and have since been shy about riding because I just don’t care to change a flat every trip. Aside from carrying a repair kit – which I did – is there a reliable preventative measure I could take in the future? From: Jim

Answer: Given your weight, you have a high likelihood of incurring pinch-flats or snakebites. The term snakebite comes from the twin holes made in an innertube when it is pinched between the road and your rim.

The Hardshell casing on the Gatorskin wraps further into the sidewall and an extra-wide PolyX Breaker covers the entire tread strip from shoulder-to-shoulder.

If the source of your flats is from a foreign object puncturing the tire then the same armored tires that I recommended for you should help to ward off this type of problem as well.

There are two ways to avoid this type of flat. One is to use high air pressure. In your case 115-120 psi would be good. The other way to prevent this type of flat is to use an armored tire. While there are a plethora of armored tires on the market, the ones you need have an armored sidewall as well as an armored tread. Examples of this type of tire include, but are not limited to, Continental Gatorskin Hardshell tires and the Schwalbe Ultremo DD HD tire. The thicker sidewall found in these tires will cushion and protect your innertube when it is pinched. Downhill mountain bike tires have used this type of protection for over a decade to prevent the same problem.

The nuclear option for flat prevention is to switch to road tubeless. The beauty of road tubeless is that they can’t pinch flat unless you nail them hard enough to destroy your rim too. Even better when you get a puncture, the foreign object seals the hole until it is removed. When it is removed, there is sealant waiting to seal the tire so you can keep rolling. Lastly, tubeless road tires handle better than all of the armored tires offering more grip and a much smoother ride.

Whichever solution you choose, ride hard and watch out for those snakes!

Question: I want to shed some weight on my mountain bike but I don’t have a lot of money to do it. The other challenge is that I don’t want to give up reliability or performance. Any suggestions?  From: Bill

Answer: You sound like a hard guy to please Bill, but that doesn’t mean I won’t try to. What can I say; sometimes a guy just wants everything. I know I do! Well, I have good news for you because your seemingly impossible desire is actually achievable. In fact, I think I can improve the performance of your bike with some of these relatively inexpensive suggestions.

Every weight weenie knows that taking weight off your wheels is the best way to improve a bike’s handling while making the climbs significantly easier (or, faster and just as hard if you are into that). This does not mean you need to drop two grand on a carbon wheelset to drop some weight, although to quote Ferris Beuller, “If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.”

I bet I can actually drop a half-pound off of your bike for under $20. Just switching to ultra light tubes can take around 100g off of each wheel without any sacrifice in performance. Many old school riders will tell you that ultra light tubes are unreliable but I have experienced no degradation in reliability with them. Let’s be honest with ourselves here. If a thorn gets through a 0.5mm thick tube, it will get through 1.0mm thick tube also.

A lightweight tire like the Schwalbe Racing Ralph will shed grams without sacrificing grip.

If you already have tubeless rated tires and are using tubes, you can drop between 50-100g per wheel by converting to tubeless. This typically involves just adding some sealing tape to the rim and an aftermarket tubeless valve. Check out this blog I posted a while back for tubeless compatibility issues. This weight loss solution costs less than $30 and will dramatically improve both reliability and traction.

Another option is to switch to lighter tires whether they be tubeless or tubed tires. Schwalbe makes a number of light tires that have outstanding grip for their weight. A pair of tires will run you $130. This may sound like a lot but compared to the price of a new wheelset they are a steal. When you factor in the improved grip and the fact that you can save a comparable amount of weight by switching tires rather than switching wheels and using your old tires, the choice is a no-brainer.

So there is some food for thought that will hopefully satiate your hunger for a lighter steed. Keep the rubber side down and ride in peace my friend.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

The 2012 Garmin-Barracuda Team Jersey.

We can’t wait for the Tour Down Under to start this weekend so we can finally talk about racing again. But until then, we are left to discuss other news, such as Garmin-Cervelo’s new team name and kit.

Garmin-Cervelo will now be known as Garmin-Barracuda and is reverting back to the argyle design that graced the Slipstream jerseys of yesteryear. In case you were wondering, Barracuda Networks is a software company that provides security, networking and storage solutions. It’s too bad Cervelo is no longer a title sponsor, but it’s great that the team could pick up another high-profile sponsor.

Check out the aero dimples.

The new kit is very similar to the special edition Tour de France jersey the team raced in last year with blue argyle on the bottom and white across the mid-section. Castelli improved what is already the most comfortable pair of bib shorts on the planet by adding dimples on the fabric of the thighs to reduce aerodynamic drag. Castelli also claims the Aero Race Jersey will save 10 watts at 40km/h compared to a standard cycling jersey.

We can’t help but take note how many teams will be sporting blue motifs in 2012. One of the best parts about watching cycling on TV is the dazzling rainbow of colors that comprise the mercurial globule that is the Pro Peloton. This year, Garmin-Barracuda, Saxo Bank, Omega Pharma-Quick Step and Team Sky will all ride in kits that feature some shade of blue as the primary color. Can you imagine a four-man breakaway forming with a rider from each of these teams? It’d be more than a little tough to tell them apart.

Another interesting tidbit that came out of this announcement was that mountain bike brake manufacturer Magura has signed on as a Garmin-Barracuda team sponsor. Rumor has it that Magura is launching some new road components this year, possibly hydraulic brakes for road and TT frames. After months of hype, Cervelo will finally unveil the new P5 triathlon/TT bike on January 18th, perhaps outfitted with some fancy new Magura brakes? We’ll soon find out and you can bet we’ll have more information about it here when the news brakes, pun definitely intended.

We’ll leave you with this video of Garmin-Barracuda pro Christophe Le Mevel training in the new kit on a snowy European mountain. If you are the type of rider who hides in the basement spending lonely hours on the trainer, this will hopefully inspire you to get out and ride.

Click on the image to see the video.

With any luck the industry will start working together to come up with fewer standards we can all share rather than the mess of competing standards we have today. If not, we will just have to follow the example of Look and have each frame manufacturer come up with a frame specific crank. I would prefer the former to the latter, but realize the chances of the former actually happening are slim.

Remember: Even though SRAM and Shimano cranks both use 24mm spindles, they are very different. SRAM GXP spindles step down on the non-drive side. The other key difference is that SRAM GXP cranks are tightened down on the non-drive bearing only, while Shimano cranks press on the outer race of both bearings. These differences require different adaptor solutions in nearly all cases. Make sure you have the right adaptor for your application especially if it is for SRAM. Lastly, I advise home mechanics to avoid SRAM GXP crank adaptors that require installation of a sleeve to be installed on the stepped down GXP spindle to work in a bottom bracket or adaptor that is primarily made for Shimano applications. This type of adaptor is trickier to install and is not worth the headache, especially if you don’t have a lot of mechanical experience.

Question: I’m trying to mount a Shimano Dura-Ace crank on a BBRight equipped Cervelo S5. Is there an adaptor or specific bottom bracket available to make it work? From: Scott

Enduro (ABI) makes an adapter to mount Shimano cranks to the BBright frame design on the S5.

Answer: Enduro (ABI) makes the adaptor you need. It is a press-in reducer type that uses the existing BBRight/PF30 bottom bracket and just reduces the bearing bore down to 24mm while adding the extra width needed for a Shimano crank. Unfortunately this part is only available from Cervelo at the moment, which means you need to work with an authorized Cervelo dealer to get them (fortunately, we are an authorized dealer). Hopefully it will be available from distributors soon.

Question: I have a PressFit 30 bottom bracket on my 2012 Specialized Stumpy hardtail and I want to install SRAM X9 GXP cranks on it. I know I need some sort of SRAM specific adaptor but I can’t find anything except adaptors that are made for Shimano cranks. Is there anything out there, or do I just need to fork out for a BB30 crank? From: Jack

This adapter allows you to use a standard BSA (GXP or otherwise) BB in a PF30 frame.

Answer: The best solution I have found so far for your situation is made by SRAM. It is a SRAM PressFit 30 to English Bottom Bracket adaptor (manufacturer’s part# 00.6415.049.010). This is a neat adaptor because it works for any PressFit 30 frame that is 68mm or 73mm wide. It uses standard English outboard bearing bottom bracket cups that thread into the adaptor. Just follow the included instructions for the correct number of spacers and the location of the wave washer for your specific application.

This adaptor also works for Shimano cranks, just use the outboard bearing bottom bracket spacers you would normally use in a frame with a standard English bottom bracket width that corresponds to your PF30 bottom bracket shell width (i.e. 68 or 73mm).

Below is a list of reliable adaptors for common applications:

Adaptors for BB30 frames to use 24mm spindle cranks

Rotor BB30 to BB24 Converter Bottom Bracket - This is a Shimano specific adaptor that places the bearings outboard of a BB30 frame in order to work just like a normal English bottom bracket would with outboard bearings threaded into it. However, with this one the bearings are pressed into the adaptor so no additional bottom bracket is required for use with this adaptor. This is the stiffest adaptor solution that I am aware of for BB30 frames.

Parlee makes a similar BB30 to English adaptor but with this one the two cups do not thread together to prevent the cups from moving within the frame or coming loose in a slightly oversized frame bottom bracket bore (but this is somewhat unlikely). This is also a Shimano only solution.

Wheels Manufacturing Bottom Bracket Adaptors - These adaptors are perhaps the easiest to use. They simply press into a standard BB30 bearing and reduce the bore to 24mm while extending the overall width to meet the standard required for Shimano, Race Face, FSA, or Rotor 24mm spindle cranks designed to work with English bottom brackets. SRAM GXP specific versions are also available.

Adaptors for PressFit 30 (PF30) frames for use with 24mm spindle cranks

SRAM PressFit 30 to English Bottom Bracket Adaptor (manufacturers part# 00.6415.049.010)–This is a neat adaptor because it works for any PressFit 30 frame that is 68mm or 73mm wide. It uses standard English outboard bearing bottom bracket cups that thread into the adaptor. Just follow the included instructions for use with a 24mm SRAM GXP crank for the correct application of spacers and wave washers.

For use with a Shimano crank, just use the spacers you would normally use in a frame with a standard English bottom bracket width of either 68mm or 73mm.

With these adapters, you can use any steel 24mm or GXP crank on any BB30 or PF30 frame.

Wheels Manufacturing Bottom Bracket Adaptors - These adaptors are very easy to use but as of Dec. 2011 they are only available for Shimano cranks. They simply press into a standard PF30 bottom bracket bearing and reduce the bore to 24mm while extending the overall width to meet the standard required for Shimano, Race Face, FSA, or Rotor 24mm spindle cranks designed to work with English bottom brackets.

Adaptors for BBRight frames for use with 24mm spindle cranks

Enduro (ABI) makes an adaptor that is a press-in reducer type that uses the existing BBRight/PF30 bottom bracket and just reduces the bearing bore down to 24mm while adding the extra width needed for a Shimano crank. Unfortunately, as stated above, this part is only available from Cervelo at the moment, which means you need to work with an authorized Cervelo dealer to get them.

There are currently no adaptors available to use SRAM GXP cranks in a BBRight frame without using a sleeve-type adaptor from another vendor in conjunction with the Enduro adaptor. I do not recommend using this kind of solution.

Hopefully this post has done more to clarify the issue at hand rather than confuse. But if you are still scratching your head, please feel free to shoot me an e-mail or post a question on our Facebook wall.

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.

Welcome to our Ask a Mechanic column where our expert mechanic Daniel Slusser answers your bike maintenance questions. If you have a question for Daniel, please post it on our Facebook Wall or e-mail Daniel directly at daniel.slusser@artscyclery.com.

Question: I have a new Cannondale SuperSix Evo 1 road bike and I want to upgrade the cable to a Gore Sealed system. This bike has internal cable routing for the rear brake. I’ve done some research on the Internet and it looks like it is really difficult to replace this cable. Any tips on how to do this? From: Jack

Answer: Internal cable routing is the bane of most mechanics’ existence. It doesn’t have to be though. Bike companies could fully line the internal routes of their frames with tubing to guide the cable through. They don’t do this because it costs more, is heavier, and engineers often lack the mechanical experience to foresee these types of issues during the design and production of a bike frame.

Gore's Professional System Brake Cables uses compression-less housing for crisp, immediate brake response.

Nevertheless, there is an easy solution that can help immensely in situations like yours. Just add in the liner tubing that the thoughtless bike company did not. Take a stretch of liner tubing such as the liners included in the Gore Sealed kit, and place this over the inner wire before pulling the wire out of the frame. Even if you are not going to use a sealed cable system, you can use this trick as an installation aid. If that is the case, once you get the new inner wire through the tubing, remove the tubing from the frame.

Now some of you are probably asking yourself, “Where do I get this tubing if I am not using a sealed kit?” You actually already possess the tubing you need! Just use the plastic liner of an old section of derailleur housing. To get to it use a knife or a pair of pliers to crack the outer sheath near one end. Then use needle nose pliers to grab onto one of the housing wires and peel it back like you would a banana. Once you peel it all the way to the end it will open up just like a banana peel and you will be left with just the tubing inside.

If I wrote these instructions clearly, following them should result in thousands of fewer four-letter-words uttered in anger. My work here is done. Press on in confidence home mechanics!

Daniel Slusser is a professional bicycle mechanic with over ten years of experience. He holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from HSU and a master’s degree in history from Cal Poly University. When he is not riding, wrenching, or writing he enjoys spending time with his wife and two children.